ON THE RIO DE NEGRO RIVER IN URUGUAY,
a caviar farm takes the mission of Slow Food to the next level. Sturgeon are raised for 5 to 18 years in free-flowing, clean water until they naturally reach maturity. After the malossol preparation (the traditional Russian practice of adding 3.5% salt), Black River Caviar packages the oscietra, allowing the flavors of the brine and the nuttiness to mature in vacuum-sealed tins.
When it arrives at Primrose on Yampa Street, it’s served cold. Though the purists might suggest it’s served alone on a mother of pearl spoon, so as not to diminish the flavor, garnishing a blini or hand cut chip with flavors of chive, lemon and crème fraiche is an experience all its own.
To eat it, you’ll crush the fatty beads against the taste buds, and follow it with the bubbles of a velvety champagne. This practice ensures you’ll savor the buttery flavors of both. For as lengthy a process as caviar production is, there is no more instant a gratification.